The Operative Period and Early Speculative Masonry:

          The origins of the Masonic apron can be traced back to the leather aprons worn by stonemasons in the Middle Ages. In the early days of speculative Freemasonry (early 18th century), Masons wore simple white leather or cloth aprons inherited from the operative tradition. These early aprons usually had no embellishments; no coloured stripes, tassels or rosettes.(1)(2) Aprons were tied with strings or ribbons around the waist, and the ends of the knots hung down the front of the apron. The first traces of tassels on Masonic aprons were a natural result of these hanging string ends. In some original aprons from the 18th century, it has been noted that the ends of the wide ribbons tied around the waist were decorated with a gold-coloured fringe, which, when tied at the front and hanging down, gave the appearance of a pair of tassels.(3) In other words, the ancestor of the tassel sets added to aprons later on are the fringed knots at the ends of the apron strings.

Pic: The apron and its symbolism By Bro. F.R. Worts, M.A., P.A.G.D.C.

          Even today, Freemasons belonging to the Royal Order of Scotland continue to tie their aprons with ribbons in the traditional manner, and over time, with constant use, the ends of these ribbons can take on a tassel-like shape.(4)

Pic: Shop Link (Royal Order of Scotland Apron)

Diversity in the 18th Century:

          The advent of speculative Freemasonry in the mid-1700s marked the onset of a period of great diversity in aprons, which replaced the previous uniformity. Whilst apron sizes underwent a reduction (it is noted that the large operative aprons that originally extended almost to the knees were superseded by smaller speculative aprons by the 1780s)(5), embellishments and decorations became the norm. It is evident that between the years 1730 and 1790, a significant number of Freemasons incorporated symbols such as the Eye, Columns, Square, and Compass into their aprons through the mediums of drawing or embroidery.(6)(7) This practice was undertaken using ink or paint, as evidenced by historical records. During this period, there was variation in the configuration of apron edges and the method of fastening. For instance, triangular flaps or round-cut flaps were utilised, and for a brief period, some masons entirely abandoned the operative style and wore their aprons in a reverse position, allowing the waist section to drape downwards (8). With regard to the use of tassels, there was no official rule or standard in place. The creation of a tassel appearance by some masons entailed the fringing of the apron strings at their extremities, resulting in their suspension from the anterior aspect. In contrast, others elected to incorporate gold tassels or alternative embellishments. This liberty ultimately resulted in unruly behaviour. Indeed, as far back as 1772, the "Antient (Old) Grand Lodge" in England noted the tendency of some fraternity members to adorn their aprons with excessive amounts of gold braid, tassels, and various shapes. In response, a decision was reached prohibiting such decorations, with the stipulation that "no brother (except for Grand Officers) may have gold gilding, gold tassels, or gold embroidery on their aprons"(9). This decision is indicative of the tension between adherence to tradition and the pursuit of individual embellishment within Masonic circles during that period.

Union and Standardisation: 

         Towards the close of the 18th century, and particularly at the inception of the 19th century, endeavours to terminate the discrepancies in praxis between the two competing Grand Lodges in England (designated as the 'Moderns' and the 'Antients') were augmented. The establishment of the United Grand Lodge of England (UGLE) in England occurred with the Union of 1813. Subsequent to this union, a series of standards were established to ensure uniformity in Masonic regalia. The 1815 UGLE Constitution established the initial fundamental requirements for the aprons of the apprentice (EA), fellow craft (FC), and master mason (MM) degrees. Accordingly, the apprentice apron was to be made of white leather and plain; the fellowcraft apron was to have only two light blue rosettes added; and the master mason apron was to be the same size, white leather, with a 1.5-inch-wide light blue border and three rosettes (two in the lower corners and one on the flap) [10]. It is interesting to note that the 1815 regulations made no mention of tassels. Indeed, they explicitly restricted the use of colour or decoration outside the three degrees, with the exception of rosettes[11]. During this period, aprons with only edging and rosettes, rather than tassels, could be observed in numerous lodges. However, in subsequent years, metal tassel sets began to be used in practice within UGLE, and within a few decades, this practice became official. Indeed, the 1841 UGLE Constitution explicitly stated for the first time that 'silver tassels' were required on the master mason's apron; sources note that the standardisation of silver tassels as decoration occurred in the 1830s and was formalised in 1841 [12]. This development resulted in the classic design, consisting of two vertical stripes and seven tassels each, becoming an integral part of the master mason's apron in English Craft Masonry. By the mid-19th century, UGLE had established a regulation stipulating that tassels should not be used on apprentice and journeyman aprons. In contrast, master mason aprons were required to feature silver tassels.(13) However, the position and shape of tassel sets also became standardised over time, taking the form of symmetrical columns placed on both sides of the apron (14). The production of metal accessories, known as brightware (for example, tassel sets and L-shaped corner decorations), also gained importance during this period. Following 1813, three fundamental tassel set designs gained prevalence in England: these lustrous metal tassel holders, categorised as plain (simple) models, beveled models, and foliated models, were employed in various regions throughout the 19th century, with certain styles ultimately becoming established[15].

Pic: A brief history of the Apron and the variations of the “Brightware” that adorn them. By Mike Lawrence

Conclusion:

           The evolution of chain tassel sets on Masonic aprons serves as a tangible illustration of the transformation and development of Masonic symbols through historical periods. A detail born out of operative necessity has become the material of speculative philosophy, adorned with different interpretations in different geographical regions. Despite the variability in the signification of these symbols across different temporal and geographical contexts, the fundamental principle of Freemasonry is that these symbols embody a universal pursuit of morality and knowledge. The value of chain tassels is determined by their ability to fulfil this function. A survey of extant literature on the subject reveals a wide range of material, from anecdotes embellished with legends (such as the aprons of the craftsmen in King Solomon's Temple) to meticulous academic analyses (such as the critiques of the Quatuor Coronati members). The tassel sets, which appear to be a minor detail within Masonic tradition, have a rich history that cuts across multiple disciplines (history, art, symbolism, sociology) and unites different cultures. This history is also a manifestation of Freemasonry's understanding of 'seeking great meaning in small things'.

 

Sou​rces:

[1] www.freimaurer-wiki.de - Schurz

[2] freemasonry.bcy.ca The apron and its symbolismBy Bro. F.R. Worts, M.A., P.A.G.D.C.

[3] freemasonsareus.wordpress.com -A brief history of the Apron and the variations of the “Brightware” that adorn them. By Mike Lawrence

[4] herefordshiremasons.org.uk - The Craftsmen - What is the reason for Tassels on the apron? - By W Bro Dennis W. Roberts, PAGDC